The chapels of the fourth century Geghard monastery are architectural and acoustic wonders. We were fortunate to be alone to explore them, some hewn out of the lava stone, and some partially build with it. On that grey, snowy, late afternoon it was a magical place.
As we entered the main chapel we were greeted by a beautiful melodious ‘mum…ble, mum…ble, mumble’ from a solitary priest, his back turned to us. He was dressed in the black robes and black pointy hat which show his celibacy.
The previous day we had seen, and heard singing, many of the priest’s religious brothers at the Mother See Cathedral at Etchmiadzin – the headquarters of the Armenian Apostolic Church and seat of the Catholicos, the head of the church. The man himself was there with his kindly face and smartly brushed beard, blessing his flock (and one of our ski group) on his way to Sunday service.
Armenia in Soviet times was well known for jazz music and much of the reputation is due to one man – Levon Malkhasian. After years spent touring he founded his jazz club Malkhas in 2006 and he has been playing piano there pretty much ever since. I enjoyed a most memorable final trip night there in 2012 so was overjoyed to see him again at his piano now aged 80. Wonderful stuff.