Tateyama since ancient times has been a sacred place. The three thousand metre mountain, and those surrounding it are believed to be the dwelling place of the gods – the Kami. The mountain tops are on the path to heaven and worshipping there allowed pilgrims to avoid falling into Hell – symbolised by the steaming, sulphorous Lake Mikurigaike at their base.
On the wall of our Murodo hut hung copies of four beautifully painted ancient scrolls. These had been carried around the country by monks, who owned the lodgings at Murodo, and who preached about the images and of Tateyama Worship – Zenjo-tohai. The scrolls depict in vivid and gory detail what awaited those condemned to Hell. The fate of the Lake could be avoided by praying on the mountain tops (whilst paying to stay with the monks) or simply by paying!
Ski pilgrims on sacred peaks
We came to Murodo not as pilgrims seaking access to Buddha Amida’s paradise, but for the exceptional ski mountaineering. It is the the start point of the Japanese Haute Route, a multi-day trek over the the highest mountains in the Alps. Following the backbone of the ridge in spring it makes a challenging six-day ski crossing, finishing in the resort of Kamikochi.
Our cheerful Australian, English, Italian and Scottish team, guided as ever by Hiro and accompanied by the indefatigable Ken and Kei made it through. It was a tough, but immensely enjoyable challenge!
This was probably the last JHR for Hiro and me but not the end of Japanese spring ski touring plans. There are many great ski objectives still to be enjoyed!