Unwelcome encounters
The E4 motorway service station just north of Hiraizumi, Iwate Prefecture had automatic doors which weren’t working. On investigation they had been disabled and had to be pulled apart by hand. This retro step was necessary to prevent unwanted customers in the form of black bears from activating them. Signs on the doors explained the problem and it is a very real one throughout Tohoku, northern Honshu.
Last year, 2025, was a record one for bear sightings, attacks and fatalities in Japan, most of them in Tohoku. A reduction in the number of acorns, nuts and berries, the black bear’s staple foods, has resulted in them having to forage far from their natural habitat of forests and mountains. Adding to the problem is the rapid increase in the black bear population which is now estimated to be more than 40 000 – a four-fold increase in around 15 years.
It’s not just the hiker, mushroom picker or outdoor enthusiast who is at risk of encountering a bear. They have been sighted in city centres, have mauled urban residents, entered motorway service stations and are a serious threat. Even ski tourers should not be surprised to encounter a bear.
Bears and skis
January 10th and we were skiing on 1625m Iwakisan using the lifts and then skins to access the off-piste potential at Hyakuzawa resort. Breaking trail through deep snow back to the lifts at the end of our run we ourselves saw a bear! In January. There were numerous reported sightings that day, which was unseasonably mild. Bears should be hibernating in the depths of winter and should not be seen by ski tourers, but that day’s crazy temperatures had obviously confused them.
The other, expected result, of warm temperatures was ‘poor’ snow. Still pretty good but not the famous Japanese powder than skiers dream of and expect on an expensive ‘powder’ trip to the country. We also had continually strong winds and one full night’s rain which is most unexpected.
However, the culinary and cultural experience was as incredible as ever. We mix up staying in city centre hotels with nights in remote ryokans with thermal onsen springs. The latter have often been in the same family for generations and the food is sublime. The multitude of dishes include locally picked fruits and mushrooms, home grown vegetables and river fish. At Shimizuya we tasted all the above and in addition the local fare included bear meat! Shot by Grandpa.